We are not clear whether the remarkable Cesare Giaconne is still cooking professionally, if he is still making vinegar, or even if he is still painting. He is very difficult to communicate with. We last saw him a number of years ago when we ate in his kitchen as he was preparing a meal for his restaurant guests, so he did not have much time to chat, which was lucky because his English is about as limited as our Italian. Later, when the guests had gone, the grappa came out and the language barriers fell away.

It is his son, Oscar, who is now making this wonderful selection of vinegars. It might be considered by some to be verging on the eccentric to make the best Piedmontese wine into vinegar, but when you have tasted his Barolo vinegar in which you have marinated some strawberries, you will understand why he does it.